As I was planning our RV purchase, I put a lot of thought into what we would need in order to
boondock. I knew I
couldn't do all of the necessary modifications at once, so I decided to take them step by step.
Although we've only
boondocked twice while overnight parking, it is good to be prepared.
Running Only On Battery Power
One of the biggest considerations for boondocking is power from the RV's battery (a 12 volt
battery). While the
lights are 12 volt, other accessories don't have a good place to plug in. (As a side note, LED
lighting truly is far superior
- it uses less power and is much brighter. While most newer RVs already have them, if your RV
does not you may want
to consider replacing your existing lights with LEDs.)
When I bought our RV, I asked my salesman to add a few 12v cigarette lighter receptacles in the
living room. I wanted
the ability to run fans and maybe even our laptops. Because of difficulty and the risk of messing
up the overhead
cabinets, I ended up with only one receptacle near the entertainment system. It was a good start,
and I can use a
splitter as needed.
12v Accessory Splitter
After more thought and some time to investigate wire routing, I decided my next addition would
be adding 12v plugs on
both bedside end tables so that we could plug in some fans for more comfortable sleeping in warm
weather. I found
some accessory sockets that have a 12v cigarette lighter plug, 2 USB plugs and a volt meter.
12v Accessory Outlet for the Bedside
Our first time boondocking without air conditioning was, of course, on a day that hit 105 degrees
during the day and
settled to 90 at night. These plugs were extremely valuable for running some DC fans that we had
purchased. We also
use the USB regularly for charging our phones and tablets.
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The volt meter also provides good feedback on how much charge is in the battery, how much
power I'm getting from my
tow vehicle and the amount of power I'm getting from the charge controller. When plugged into
the tow vehicle with
the engine running, the RV receives power from the engine's alternator. The charge controller is
an electrical
component in an RV that converts AC to DC and charges the battery. The volt meter displays 13.7
volts when charging
from the charge controller while plugged into shore power and also from my Ford
Expedition when the trailer wiring is connected and the car is running. A fully charged 12v deep
cycle battery will have
about 13.7 volts when charging, and about 12.8v when full. Additionally,
at 75%, it will have about 12.50v;
at 50%, it will have about 12.2v; and
at 25%, it will have about 11.75v.
Each brand of battery may have different voltage to percent full mapping. Generally, they say you
don't want your
battery below 50%, and you should charge it so that it can maintain over 12 volts of power to
properly run your
devices. This digital voltage meter is more precise than the standard 4 lights on the RV control
panel showing
percentages.
I use the 12v accessory plug in the living room for an Endless Breeze fan (which is like the
Fantastic Fan but portable).
12v Accessory Outlet in the Living Room
Endless Breeze Fan
I also have a 12v extension cord that gives me more placement options.
As of this time, I haven't tried to implement any solar panel charging features. I have a standard
80amp deep cycle
group 24 battery. I haven't run out of power on any of my short periods on battery - either
boondocking,
parked in a driveway without charging, or at a Walmart.
12v Extension Cord
Cooling Your RV on Battery Power
I purchased some cheap 12v 8" clip-on trucker fans that come in handy in the bedroom. Placed
near an open window
on
a hot summer night without A/C, they definitely provide some relief.
12v 8" Oscillating Clipon Fan
One caution - sometimes this type of fan doesn't have a finger guard on the back. At one point we
had an accident that
can easily be avoided. The fan has a switch in the power cable and when pressed, it goes on or
off. Once, in the dark,
we turned the fan off and set it aside. Later, the switch was accidentally stepped on which caused
the fan to turn on
(very quietly). When the fan was picked up, thinking it was still off, fingers went through the
back-side of the fan and
directly into the blades. Ouch! Don't do that. You can avoid this problem by purchasing a fan with
a finger guard!
I also installed FanTastic Fans in the bedroom ceiling vent and bathroom - refer to our blog post
for details on the
installation.
What advice do you have on which direction to point your fans? Should fans blow into or out of
the window, or do you
recommend one blowing in each direction? Please comment below!
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Installing Additional 12v Accessory Outlets
Doing the installation was pretty easy because I could run the wiring through the storage cabin in
the front of the trailer.
However, I needed to locate a 12v wire nearby. On one side of the bedroom, we have a factory
installed USB plug just
over the bedside
table. I was able to tap into that plug to run additional wiring to my new accessory outlet,
down through the storage cabin and up the other side for another outlet.
Existing 12v USB Plug
To do the install I needed to take the drawers out. This was tricky. The drawers have little plastic
latches to release
them from the sliding rails, but they move in opposite directions on each side of the drawer. Since
it is hard (or
impossible) to see them, if you don't know this you can fiddle forever.
One thing that I learned during the installation is that the RV came with a battery switch inside the
storage cabin to turn
off all of the power. However, not all power draws (power vampires) go through the switch. The
USB plug that I was
tapping was not turned off by the master switch. Look out! You may have a battery master
switch that doesn't turn
everything off! (See my blog post about a battery switch installed by the RV dealer that I later
reinstalled.)
Once I got the drawers out, I drilled a hole into the back wall over each bedside table. I also
drilled a hole from the
storage cabin up into the drawer area. There were already some holes inside the drawer that
went into the wall space.
(I realize that it may be hard to understand and visualize how I routed my wiring, and you'll need
to figure out your
routing based on your RV
configuration.) Once I had my holes, I ran black and red 12v capable wiring (from the USB that I
was tapping) through
the wall and into the drawer space. Then from the drawer space, I ran another wire down through
the storage cabin,
and similarly up on the other side.
Running Wires Through Storage Cabin
Once the wiring was there, I could attach and screw in the new accessory outlets and wire it all
together.
12v Accessory Outlet for the Bedside
Finding The Parts
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